***Note! I recently simplified and tweaked my tshirt drafting process, and have a new tutorial for drafting a tee from measurements that is a little more user friendly. Both are good methods, though, so check out my new one, and decide from there! Thanks for stopping by, and like always I love to get feedback or questions!
There have been a few people who have asked me for my t-shirt pattern. “Sure!” I said. But then it occurred to me that not everyone is my size. Hmm. So I decided to break it down like MJ, and let you figure out your own perfect t-shirt pattern. Hopefully this will give you a good pattern, and then you can tweek it until you feel it’s a great pattern. This is my rooky attempt at pattern drafting, so if you have any suggestions, questions, or maybe you want to pull your hair out, leave a comment. And if this is just completely intimidating, then just buy a pattern. In fact, unless you’re broke or lazy, just go buy a pattern. It’s easier. BUT if you’re into free and figuring, then give this a whirl and let me know how it turns out! FYI: Different knits can REALLY change the size and fit of your tee. Sometimes my shirt comes out pretty fitted, and then sometimes it’s pretty loose. So, if you find it’s too big/little, I would change the shirt, not the pattern, because it’s possibly/probably the fabric that’s making the difference.
See my fitted tee tutorial HERE
Get a friend or a lucky someone to help you measure yourself. Wear a simple t-shirt that you like the way it fits, length, etc.
*Note–all the following measurements are taken from your BACK SIDE!
*Note–all my measurements are based on a scant 1/4 inch seam! (The width of an overlock stitch).
FRONT AND BACK:
1. Measure from the top center edge of your BACK neckline to the bottom of the shirt. Add 2 and then write that down. (I actually add 4 because I like my shirts LONG as the Dickens, and I like to have more to work with if I can. If you do this, be sure to add 4 to step 1-4. (i.e. it says add 2, you add 4; it says add 2.5, you add 4.5). Got it?
2. Measure from the top shoulder seam to the bottom of the shirt. Add 2.5 and then write that down.
3. Measure from the bottom shoulder seam (where it meets the sleeve), to the bottom of your shirt and add 2. Write that down.
4. Measure from the top of your side seam (underneath your armpit), to the bottom of your shirt. Add 2 and write that down.
5. Measure around the bottom edge of your shirt (pretty much around your hip bones). Add 2 and then divide by 4, and write that down.
6. Measure around your true waist (the smallest part of your middle). Add 2, divide by 4, and write that down.
7. Measure around your bust. Add 2, divide by 4, and write that down.
8. Measure from the top center back edge to the bottom shoulder seam (see pic), and then add 1 and write that down (you’re not measure diagonally, rather straight–eyeballing how far that shoulder seam comes out. Capish?).
9. With your arm down, measure the fullest part of your bicep (without flexing!), add 2.5 and write that down.
10. Measure the length you want your sleeve to be (starting from the top of your shoulder down), add 1/2 and write that down.
11. Measure around your shoulder, (over shoulder, under armpit, fairly snugg), add 1/2 an inch, and write that down.
Calculate and Draw the Pattern.
* TWO IMPORTANT NOTES. There are two crucial errors: the neckband should be cut on the BIAS (the diagonal grain). This will help it lay flat–trust me, it’s important. And secondly, it saysthe length of the neck PLUS a few inches, and it should be the length MINUS of few inches. The neckband should be SHORTER than the measurement of the neck opening. It should be anywhere from 3/4 -7/8 the length of the neck opening.
Now go! To my fitted tee shirt tutorial!