This series is sponsored by Baby Lock. For over 40 years, Babylock has been dedicated to the love of sewing by creating machines for sewing, embroidery, quilting and serging – all with ease-of-use, high quality and a touch of elegance.
It’s not hard to see why maxi skirts and dresses have infiltrated fashion over the last couple of years, and are still a staple and going strong–they are comfortable, functional, and versatile. And if you ask me, the knit fabric variety are all of those things to the MAX (ee). They shine in all seasons, and are a dream to whip up. They are so simple and basic, and a great first knit sewing project. Today I’ll show you how to draft your own pattern (it’s easy!) and construct an a-line and gathered maxi (the most common styles). Hop on over to Miranda‘s to learn how to draft and construct leggings, another wardrobe staple!
Let’s start with the a-line maxi, and you’ll need to take a few quick measurements:
- Quarter waist: true waist divided by 4.
- Quarter hip: fullest part of your bum divided by 4.
- Waist to hip: distance between the waist and hip.
- Waist to desired length:distance between the waist and desired length.
- Quarter hip measurement plus 8-10″, depending on how flared you want you skirt.
Draft the Pattern:
Cut a piece of paper that is plenty longer than your waist to desired length measurement (give yourself at least 6”). One edge needs to be completely straight, as it will become your center front and fold line.
- Starting a couple of inches from the top, measure down the length of number 1 and mark. This is your Center Front as well as as the length of your maxi skirt.
- Starting back at the top again and measure down the length of number 2 and mark. This will be your hip point.
- Once again from the top, measure out perpendicularly your quarter waist (number 3).
- At your previously marked hip point, measure out perpendicularly your quarter hip (number 4).
- To finish plotting, start at the bottom of the CF line and measure out perpendicularly the quarter width of your bottom hem (number 5).
- Now to connect the dots by starting a 1/2 down from your CF line, and drawing a gentle curve that ends at the point of line 3.
- From there you’ll continue down with another gentle curve to the end point of line 4.
- Complete your side seam by continuing with an almost straight line (very slightly curved towards the top) until your reach about 3/4′s above line 5.
- Finish the pattern by drawing another very gentle curve to meet with the CF point.
Add a 1/4″ seam allowance everywhere except the bottom hem where you’ll add 5/8″ for turning (more or less depending on your planned hemming).
Cut and construct:
- Cut 2 (front and back skirt pieces) from fabric, making sure that your width has the greatest degree of stretch.
- Serge/sew the side seams together. Check out Miranda’s construction a knit tee post for tips on construction stitches for both a sewing machine and serger.
- Cut a rectangle of fabric for the waistband that has a width that is your waist measurement minus 2″ (negative ease for a snug fit), and a length that is your desired waistband thickness times 2 and plus 1/4″ seam allowance. Fold in half widthwise, right sides together, and serge/sew side seam. Just a note, I made both of my bands smaller because I planned on belting my skirts. For a true yoga waistband you’ll want a length of about 10 inches, which folded over will be about a 5 inch band that hug your hips.
- Fold in half lengthwise now WST, encasing the seam allowance within the band. Be sure to try your band on at this point to ensure a nice snug fit (take note that it will likely stretch out a bit during sewing).
5. Fit the waistband over the right side of your skirt, pin–matching side seams, and serge/sew. Now flip up the band, finish the bottom hem, and you’re ready to rock.
Cut and construct:
- Cut a large rectangle that has the width of your waist measurement times 1.5, and is your desired length long plus a 5/8″ for turning. Fold it in half widthwise, and serge/sew the side seam.
- Gather the top edge using your preferred gathering method. I like to zig zag over cording or string, and then cinch/gather by pulling the string tight. This is SO much easier than two rows of basting threads, and it produces nice, even gathers. I also love to gather using the serger, it’s also much faster and accurate then the double row basting method. Gather it to your waist circumference (doesn’t have to be exact yet).
- Cut another rectangle that is the width of your waist circumference minus 2″, and the length of your desired waistband thickness times 2 plus a 1/4″ seam allowance. Fold in half widthwise and RST, and sew/serge. Then fold again lengthwise, encasing the side seam within the waistband. Try out and check fit; remember that it will likely stretch a small amount during sewing, so you want it fairly snug.
- Gather your skirt top to match the circumference of your waistband and pin matching side seams, raw edges and make sure it’s RST.
- Serge/sew. If you used the cord gathering method I suggest first basting, then removing the cord before you serge/sew. Flip waistband up, hem bottom edge and wear!
(Fabric for this skirt came from the Fabric Fairy–isn’t it fantastic??. )
Remember to check out Miranda‘s post about drafting and sewing leggings!
More Stretch Yourself:
Knit Fabrics and Selection at OLM // Cutting Knit Fabric at MM
Making a Pattern from a Tee Shirt at OLM // Drafting a Tee Pattern from Measurements at MM
Basic Tee Shirt Construction at OLM // Finishing Details for Knit Fabric at MM
Tee Shirt Dress Variation at OLM // Peplum Tee Variation at MM
Drafting and Sewing Leggings at OLM // Drafting and Sewing a Maxi Skirt at MM
Serger and Coverstitch Techniques at OLM // Baby Lock Diana Threading and Coverstitch at MM
20 Comments
LOVE this. I’ve been meaning to comment. Your whole series is fantastic. Absolutely wonderful. Great work!
Wow, both skirts are beautiful! How much fabric does this require?
Hey Elise, it depends on your measurements, but I used about a 1 1/2 of 45″ fabric for the gathered, and I think about the same for the a-line, but it was 55″ wide. I suggest drafting your pattern, and then figuring it out from there!
I’ve really enjoyed this series! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge about sewing with knits. That’s one area of the sewing world I haven’t experimented with much, so I’m excited to give it a try!
Mim,
Your work is soooooooooooooo beautiful, the pretty clothes you’ve made and the web portrayal is clean, pretty and professional. You look so gorgeous. I’ve been thinking about you and I come and look expecting you just getting started into your week to find awesome resource after awesome resource. Drop the jaw line.
Well, good work sis.
Women look so dang beautiful in skirts, why is it we keep wearing jeans? And maxis (and specifically knit maxis) are totally the way to go for comfort. Thanks for this oooooh la la post!
You girls are giving me too many options, my to-do list is going to explode!
Thank you so much for doing this series! I have absolutely no confidence when it comes to drafting patterns, but with the detailed instructions you’ve done, I’m going to give it a try again. Patterns can be so expensive, so learning to do this is a huge money saver!
Kelly
Loving your series. My selfish sewing list is growing rapidly! Also enjoyed your Victory pattern review, the first time I heard of them. Cannot wait to try some of their patterns.
Thank you SO much for these! What a fantastic teacher you are, and so generous to share. I absolutely love the gathered one, and can not wait to make one. And yes, I adore that fabric. I’ve been sewing for the kids, but this may get bumped up to the top of my list.
Thank you for posting this tutorial. I used the knit maxi tutorial tonight, and it went together so fast! Except for the hem. I have a hate/love/hate relationship with my sewing machine when it comes to knits and finishing them. But I was able to use my serger and it worked awesome.
Thank you so much for taking time to post this series. I can’t wait to try another skirt!
Getting ready to make a couple of these! Wish me luck!
Thanks so much for the tutorials!
I just started making the gathered skirt, I used the string/cord method and I am not sure if I should pull out the cord after sewing the skirt part to the waistband? I feel like maybe I would have a hard time pulling it over my hips with the cord in?
Yes, remove it! I should probably go back and clarify, thanks for the great question!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing! I found you on Pinterest after looking through lots of dead pins.
I am waaay confused. Similar to Michelle’s question about the cord being removed, my dilemma is that once the waistband is sewn to the gathered skirt, it will not go past my hips. My thread is not stretchy; is there a stretchy thread I’m supposed to be using? I want a smooth unruffled waistband, but still have gathering for the fullness in the skirt. Any help is appreciated!
Ok, you don’t have to have stretchy thread, but you DO have to remove the cord before you complete the project. I removed mine after I had serged it, but I think it would be easier to first BASTE the band to the skirt, remove the cord, and then stay stitch it with a zig zag stitch or serger. Does that make sense? I’ll go back through the instructions and clarify. Thanks for the question, hope this helps!
Hello, I was reading through the instruction on the A-line skirt and was wondering if Step #5, you also divide that number to get desired width?
Sorry that is a bit confusing, I just went back and specified that it’s your quarter hip measurement that you add 8-10″. So no, you don’t divide it, as it’s already been divided. Hope that clears it up!
i realized my e-mail address was wrong after I sent my question about step #5.